15.11.24

Nyege Nyege Fest //

What happened when I took a group of empowered Ugandan youth to a music festival to talk about periods

Arriving on the plane I was greeted by the gentleman seated behind me, he was introducing himself to his neighbour, there was music playing and bold patterned fabric on the chairs setting me up for a safari. The staff on board were dressed not in a restrictive uniform, instead they appeared to be adorned in gowns that gave a spoke of the regal-ness and beauty of the African people. I was flying to Uganda on Ethiopia airlines via Addis Ababa, the same route I took when I moved there back in 2016 - ‘welcome home’.

There was a confusion in me when I left Reykjavik the night before to head to London for this flight. I had only booked this trip a few weeks prior, did I not have enough time to come around to this idea? What was I doing going to the equator for two weeks when I’d be returning to snow? Some how I trusted that it would work out, and it did.

Staying with a host family in 2016 to support a group of national and international volunteers working on a project was one of the most peaceful times of my life. Months before I’d left me partner of 9 years, the home we’d renovated together and my job to go in search of something else. I adjusted to bucket baths, long drops, village life and being the only muzungu (white person) in the neighbourhood.

Growing up my Father set up a charity to support the work of a friend of his, sponsoring children effected by the Rwandan genocide. The first flight I took was aged 17 to Rwanda and I had grown up with Rwandans, Ugandans, Kenyans and even Filipinos staying from time to time which was pretty unusual for someone growing up a predominately white town and county - but it was normal for me.

However, I was much more comfortable than my Father with adjusting to a different culture. My visits to Rwanda aged 17 and 21 was spent in the actual Hotel Rwanda and another fancy place. Staying with the host family meant staying in a home belonging to a local, which looked like; chickens and a turkey lived inside, the loo was outside, there was a curtain in place of a door to the bedroom, raindrops on the metal roof brought much noise, the radio played through the night with a pastor preaching loud, the aunty woke up at 4am to also pray loudly but there were sofas and TV.

Perhaps it was that my responsibilities had shrunk that made life feel more peaceful in Uganda. Or it could have been the heat, the fresh foods, the way of life or the people I met. I returned again in 2017 for my own research into reusable pads and menstruation education in Uganda and Rwanda, I had friends here now who I would stay with. I was greeted by Sarah who came to meet me at the airport and we made the long journey from the airport to the village, catching up and reminiscing about how much time had passed since we last met.

I arrived at Medie’s place in the night and was grateful to have landed at the final stop ‘isuukayo’ (welcome home). I woke at dawn to the call to prayer, the birds and the movement of people outside. I looked around the room and tried to piece together where I was, ‘go back to sleep’, I wasn’t ready to process this yet. A few hours later I stir again and check my phone, it’s now afternoon, I lay there letting my body and mind catch up with my reality - I was back in Uganda.

A little while later I get up, no one is home, Medie said he would be out at work but the boys next door would be around. I hear birds outside the window and turn to watch them quarrel. I pull out my notebook and take myself to sit on the bench on the front porch ‘home sweet home’. There is something so familiar about being here. I feel safe here despite not having a guide or translator or driver to be by my side, I feel comfortable even if I’ve got to now figure out how best to toilet and shower. I smile at the people passing by, they wave, nod, children giggle ‘muzungu’.

Sega returns home and sits with me. He explains that he stays next door to Medie’s place, he has some goats and he is a boxer, then takes his phone out to show me. I have always loved it when people feel comfortable to share with me about who they are. I’m getting to know this person, I’m hearing an update of how the youth here have moved from their previous location and I am welcomed like a family member, it’s a reunion.

I see faces of long distant family members appear over the next few days. I take my time to adjust to the heat, fortunately for me we arrange to have our first meeting later in the week. I soon realise that although I had spoken with people about the intention of this trip, getting ideas from the young people about how we can have a presence to promote +256 Youth Platform at Nyege Nyege festival, it might not be all the things we spoke about.

For starters half of the people aren’t here and aren’t availavle